Sunday, April 21, 2024

A STEM Project: Coding an Oval Box in TurtleStitch

An Oval Box Coded In TurtleStitch and Embellished with Designs Created with the Silhouette For Mother's Day

I coded the oval box in TurtleStitch and then cut it out with a Silhouette


I love making boxes embellished with beautiful designs and this box fits that desire.  This is a lovely box which can be given for Mother's Day with its cheerful flowers and butterfly embellishments.

I designed the oval box in TurtleStitch and then copied it to the Silhouette software to be cut.  The flower and butterfly embellishments were made with the Silhouette software.

For my Silhouette friends and those of you who do not want to program, I have included all files to make the oval box with embellishments. The instructions to put the box together are at the end of this post.

Here is the PDF.  I used 65 lb. cardstock.

Here is the .Studio file.

Here is the SVG.  The file extends beyond the scope of the viewing field.  Zoom out to see the entire file.


Coding an Oval Box in TurtleStitch  

Here is the program in TurtleStitch where I made the oval box components. https://www.turtlestitch.org/users/Elaine/projects/Oval%20Box 

Coding the Box Top and Bottom 

Before I explain how I coded the box, I would like to talk about the thought process required when coding a TurtleStitch design.  Can the shape be broken down into manageable parts that are easily programmed? Draw a picture of the shape and break it into simple parts. The oval shape looks like two circles that are joined by a rectangle.  See photo below.


Looking at just the outer edge, there is a blue semicircle followed by a red straight line and then another blue semicircle with a straight red line that makes up the oval figure. 

Knowing this information, the coding is a simple task.  


Using the arc right block,  determine a radius that you want and then move the turtle 180 degrees to create the first semicircle.  Use a move block to get to the next semicircle, and then repeat these two instructions, arc right and move blocks, to finish the oval.


I repeated these instructions for the bottom of the box with a 98% reduction in size.  The bottom of the box needs to smaller so that the top can slide easily onto the bottom of the box.

Programming the Sides of the Box


The photo above shows the design for the side of the box. It is a strip of paper with tabs. The bottom tab adheres to the oval and the left side tab creates an oval strip when the tab is adhered to itself on the other end.

To calculate the circumference of the oval, two semicircles plus the two lengths of the rectangle need to be added together. 

Since the two semicircles equal the circumference of one circle, the circumference of one circle plus the two lengths of the rectangle is coded.

Make the Tabs for the Side of the Box

To create the tabs and dotted lines, two special blocks need to be used. The first special block is for the tabs. Here is the program in TurtleStitch if you would like to play with it functionality. https://www.turtlestitch.org/run#cloud:Username=Elaine&ProjectName=Edgefold%20Width%20With%20Multiple%20Teeth

The edgefold block can creates different types of tabs with a different number of teeth. 


Make the Dotted lines for the Side of the Box

The second special block is for the dotted lines. Here is the program in TurtleStitch if you would like to play with it functionality.

The move block can create different lengths of dotted lines.

Make the Strip Block For the Side of the Box

Here is the strip block that I created.  The turtle is moved for the length of the circumference and then turned at a right angle for the height of the top.  The turtle is moved again at a right angle and dotted lines are created with the move block. The turtle is turned around 180 degrees and the edgefold block creates the bottom tabs.



The turtle is turned around 180 degrees and aligned to create the side tab with the edgefold and move blocks

The instructions are repeated for the bottom side of the box with a 98% reduction in size. 

A one inch block is used to create a one inch square so that the image can be resized in the Silhouette software.  The design is then saved as a DXF file for the Silhouette.

Open the Oval Box in the Silhouette Software 
When a design is saved in TurtleStitch as a DXF file, the file measurements are not preserved and the file needs to be resized in the Silhouette software. Photo above shows the size of the one inch square in the Silhouette software.



The size of the entire file needs to be resized. Divide 1 by the size of the observed one inch square and then multiply by 100. 

1/0.618 x 100 = 161.81%

Transform the entire file with the calculated percentage amount. 


Check the one inch square to see if it is now one inch.  (The one inch square is no longer needed, and can be deleted.) Realign all of the components of the oval box on your Silhouette screen and cut as usual. In the file, I added another top and bottom oval to my Silhouette file, since I wanted the box to be two walled as this produces a sturdy box.

Make the Box 




The height of the top of the box is smaller than the bottom of the box. Repeat these instructions for each half of the box. Glue the strip together to form a loop as shown in photo above at the top. Fold the tabs of this strip at a right angle. 

Apply glue to the inside tabs as shown above. Adhere the corresponding oval to the tabs. 

Turn the piece over and apply glue to the tabs.  Adhere the corresponding oval to the tabs. 

Add embellishments to create a pretty oval box to give for Mother's Day.

Tuesday, April 16, 2024

A STEM Project: Making a Simple Microscope Using a Glass Marble

Image of an onion bulb epidermis as seen with an iPhone Magnifier

Simple Components of a Marble Microscope
Lens holder with glass marble inside, Slide carrier and a glass marble lens

Simple Microscope Assembly Using a Glass Marble

The microscopic world is an amazing environment to explore.  A drop of water placed on a piece of wax paper can begin your journey of magnifying objects.  The drop of water forms a round blob because of surface tension on the wax paper.  Using this water blob, you can magnify objects.

In this blog posting, I use a clear glass marble from the Dollar store to make a simple magnifying lens. 

Here are the files to make the lens holder and the slide holder.  I have three versions of the files.  The first is a PDF where you can cut out the pieces with scissors.  The second file is for the Silhouette and the third file is all other electronic paper cutting machines. 

Materials needed. - Glue Dots, Glass Marble and a Tea Light

Here is the PDF. I used 65 lb cardstock.

Here is the .Studio file for the Silhouette.

Here is the SVG. The file goes beyond the viewable area.  Zoom out to see the entire file.
Make the Box - The top and bottom construction is the same. The box top and bottom are two walled.  This produces a sturdy box. 

Crease the box top as shown above and apply glue to the two tabs on the sides.

Apply glue to the four tabs inside the box as shown above.  Adhere the box top.

Apply glue to the top of the box and adhere the second wall of the box top.

Repeat the construction for the bottom of the box.

I used a Glue Dot to center the tea light to the center of the bottom.



Put the cover on the box. Apply Glue Dots to the two tabs of the slide carrier.

Make the Lens Holder

Crease the tube and apply glue to the side tab.  Shape the tube into a hexagonal tube. Apply glue to the lens holder on the six tabs. 

Insert the lens holder into the tube.

Crease the two strips into a circle.

Apply glue to the two circle tabs and adhere.
Glue the two discs together.

Glue the circle onto the disc. Repeat for the second one.

Insert the glass marble into the smaller side. Apply glue to the top edge of the larger side.

Adhere the two sides together.

Assemble the Viewing Platform


Insert the slide into the slide carrier.

Place the slide carrier on top of the lite box.  Place the lens holder on top of the slide carrier.



A STEM Project: Making a Stitch Marker for Amigurumi Crochet

Stitch Markers for Amigurumi Crochet 

I bought an Amigurumi crochet kit at Michaels and discovered that the kit did not include a stitch marker which works as a place holder for the start of the round for the crochet pattern.  The stitch marker opens and closes like a safety pin. I was going to purchase a medium size stitch marker but the package of 20 was nine dollars!  I was astonished at the price.  I didn't want to spend that much money for some stitch markers. I thought, I can 3D print that. And so I did.  Here is how I did it. And I made it in two different sizes!

My stitch marker project in Tinkercad. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0wISXYdyOwp-stitch-marker-for-amigurumi-crochet

Using the Silhouette software, I designed a stitch marker which will have three layers. (Each layer must be a closed figure with no broken points that are red in point editing mode.) I saved each layer separately and in the same location in Silhouette so that the image will be in the same location in Tinkercad so I do not have to align the layers.

I placed the layers on top of one another as shown above in Silhouette  I saved each layer separately. I saved just the bottom base layer (I deleted the middle and top layer ) as an SVG using the file command.  I called mine, stitch marker #1.  (You must have the Designer Software in order to save the image as an SVG using the Silhouette software.)

Using the Undo command, highlighted in the top left in blue. Save just the middle layer by deleting the top and bottom layers, as an SVG called stitch marker #2. 

Again using the Undo command, delete the middle and bottom layers and save the file as an SVG called stitch marker #3.  Once all of the layers have been saved, go to the Tinkercad software.

In Tinkercad, Import the bottom base layer and change the height of the layer to .04 inches in the Shape box.  This layer will then be approximately 1 mm thick. (The whole design is 3 mm or .12 inches thick.)

Import the middle layer and change the height of the layer to .04 inches in the Shape box.  Notice that the middle layer is inside of the base layer.

The middle layer needs to be raised up by .04 inches from 0.

Repeat for the top layer by importing the top layer and changing the height of the layer to .04 inches in the Shape box. Click on the red arrow and change the height to .08 The top layer is now raised up to that height.

A close up look of the stitch marker in Tinkercad.

Group the layers together

Duplicate the shape and make the width and length 85% smaller.  This is a two step operation.  First double click one side and change the value to 85% and then change the other value to 85%.

I now have two sizes of stitch markers.

Save the file in Tinkercad for the 3D printer.